Hi There!!

Microneedling is a great skin treatment, it helps with reducing pigmentation, scarring and increasing collagen production. For people with black/brown skin, microneedling has some challenges and risks, especially around  post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH)

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Understanding Pigmentation and Dark Spots

Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) happens when an injury or inflammation to the skin triggers an overproduction of melanin, leading to darkened patches or spots. Black/brown skin has bigger melanocytes so we can make more melanin and distribute it deeper in our skin.  This makes us more prone to PIH.

This makes any procedure that induces even minor trauma, such as microneedling, a potential risk for making the hyperpigmentation worse.

Microneedling involves creating micro-injuries in the skin using fine needles. While this stimulates collagen production and can improve skin texture and tone, it also carries a risk of PIH for people with darker skin tones. The treatment can lead to an uneven skin tone if not performed correctly or without proper aftercare.

 The Importance of Pre-Treatment Care

Before undergoing microneedling, people with black skin need to prepare their skin properly. Pre-treatment care includes:

1. Skin Priming - Make sure you have a proper skincare routine, you cannot go from using soap & water to going for advanced aesthetic treatments like microneedling.  Using cosmeceuticals and not cosmetics in your skincare routine will ensure that your skin is used to stronger active ingredients and therefore can tolerate microneedling.  Make sure that your skin is used to exfoliation and resurfacing treatments 

3. Sun Protection - Consistent use of broad-spectrum sunscreen with an SPF of 30 or higher can protect the skin from UV rays, which worsen pigmentation.  Make sure that you also wear hats or carry an umbrella if you're going to be in the sun for long periods

Post-Treatment Care is Crucial

Post-treatment care is equally important to minimize the risk of PIH. Here are the key steps:

1. Moisturisation - Keeping the skin well-hydrated helps to promote healing and reduce the risk of irritation.

2. Sun Avoidance - Direct sun exposure should be avoided, and sun protection should be diligently continued. Sunscreens with physical blockers like zinc oxide or titanium dioxide are preferable.

3. Gentle Skincare - Use gentle, non-irritating skincare products to avoid further inflammation. Avoid harsh exfoliants and active ingredients until the skin has fully healed.

Spacing Out Treatments

For those with black skin, it’s advisable to space microneedling treatments further apart. While typical protocols might suggest treatments every 4-6 weeks, extending this interval can allow the skin more time to recover and reduce the likelihood of PIH. A more conservative approach, such as every 8-10 weeks, might be more appropriate for people of colour

Microneedling can be an effective treatment for black skin when approached with caution and care. Understanding the risks associated with PIH and taking appropriate pre and post-treatment measures can mitigate these risks. Consulting with a skincare therapist, sticking to a skincare routine and spacing treatments appropriately are essential steps to ensure safe outcomes from microneedling for those with black skin.