Hi there!
Today we’re going to talk about sudden chronic cystic acne. I had a friend contact me about her acne saying it had become quite bad & she’d been struggling with this for eight months now. She has had the odd pimple here & there in the past but her problems started when she tried a new product. She started breaking out on the new product so she stopped using it but the breakouts never went away, instead, they just got worse.
In this post we’re going to discuss what could be the cause of her sudden cystic acne… was it the new product or is there another underlying problem and how can you tell the difference?
Healing Crisis
Introducing a new product with new ingredients to your skin, especially alpha/beta hydroxy acids, may cause a healing crisis. This is a positive thing, as it means your skin is getting rid of any underlying congestion.
There are microcomedones or underlying congestion for those with acne-prone skin, and alpha/beta hydroxy acids can increase cell turnover. This process brings up any underlying congestion to the surface, which may cause the skin to break out. Although this may seem irritating, it's beneficial as it helps to clear any blockages or congestion in your pores.
Additionally, beta hydroxy acids help to regulate sebum/oil production. As a result, your skin may produce more or less oil as it tries to regulate its oil production, causing it to become either too oily or dry during the healing crisis.
Typically, a healing crisis lasts 4-6 weeks and then subsides. If you stop using the new ingredient before then, the healing crisis will stop. Therefore, if someone experiences sudden cystic acne after starting a new product, it might not necessarily be caused by the new product.
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Maskne
Living during a pandemic has meant implementing social distancing and wearing masks in public. However, the continuous use of masks has resulted in skin sensitivity and breakouts for many people. If you're experiencing sudden cystic acne, your mask might be the cause.
The mask creates friction against your skin, leading to a condition called Acne Mechanica. This is caused by constant pressure, heat, sweating, and friction on the skin – all of which are characteristics of wearing a mask. The heat and humidity generated by your breath, along with limited oxygen flow, form an environment where the bacteria p.acnes, thriving in anaerobic conditions, can flourish. Additionally, wearing a mask dehydrates the skin, causing it to produce more oil in an attempt to moisturize itself. When combined with the friction from the mask, this creates the perfect conditions for acne.
To treat this issue, you have two options: either stay indoors, self-isolate, and avoid wearing a mask, or explore other skin-friendly mask options. Or, you become very consistent with your skincare regimen and incorporate ingredients like Salicylic acid, alpha lipoic acid, retinol and hyaluronic acid into your skincare routine.
Hormones
Hormones can wreak havoc on our skin! You may experience breakouts just before or after your period, when you're stressed, and during menopause. Our sebaceous glands are sensitive to testosterone, which causes them to produce a thicker, stickier oil. During our menstrual cycle, estrogen levels drop, which can lead to breakouts. Additionally, estrogen levels drop again during menopause, so you might experience acne well into your 40s or 50s.
Cortisol is a stress hormone that is produced to prepare our bodies for stressful situations. Cortisol increases oil production in the skin, contributing to acne. It also interferes with wound healing, meaning breakouts might not clear as quickly as when you were younger.
Digestive Health
If your digestive system isn't functioning properly, it could lead to a condition called leaky gut. This means that bacteria and toxins that are supposed to be in your intestines start leaking into your bloodstream. This causes inflammation in the body and contributes to cystic acne on your skin. To keep your gut healthy, make sure to take prebiotics and probiotics and increase your fibre intake for regular bowel movements. Managing stress is also important, as it can contribute to stomach issues. Remember, healthy skin starts from the inside.
I always say that treating acne is a marathon, not a sprint. Start by figuring out what caused it, is it oily skin, your mask or hormones? Be very strict and consistent with your skincare routine, keep your gut healthy and your stress levels down and you'll achieve clear and glowing skin.
So, in my friend's case, her sudden cystic acne wasn't caused by the new product as she had thought. She just needed to improve her skincare regimen and change her diet and lifestyle.